Questioning the facade of the introvert, the LOEWE Women’s Fall Winter 2018 collection designed by creative director Jonathan Anderson inhabits a pensive space where the organic meets the industrial. Disrupted by decadent moments of primitivism, austerity reigns – as shapes nod to the mid-century shifted through a contemporary lens.
Embracing LOEWE tradition, leather is worked as both surface and adornment. Smooth topstitched calfskin imposes structure on cotton plissé dresses, is spliced through lace, or falls in vertical panels down soft smocks and trousers. Flared coats and capes create ample volume in flat gabardine, plush shearling, or raw-cut optical jacquard.
By reflecting on echoes of early modernism in contemporary art today, Jonathan Anderson posits the LOEWE Women’s Spring Summer 2019 show inside a simulated exhibition construct at the Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris. Entering through the recreated façade of experimental London gallery SIGNALS (1964-66), the restored mid-century rooms play host to a sequence of kinetic, sonic, and fibre art experiences.
Showcased within this gallery conceit the collection bristles with a Brutalist hedonism, where matte, raw textiles are elevated by swathes of opulent colour in an inky, aquarelle palette. The collection´s enduring silhouettes play with curves, inflate with voluminous intent, and explore the potency of suspended asymmetries.