A completely darkened venue envelops LOEWE’s fall winter 2017 women’s presentation, a textural collection that plays and expands on what the house has accomplished with leather, interspersing it with a melodramatic element that is evident in the photographs by Sri Lankan pianist and artist Lionel Wendt (1900-1944) and the rare orchids dotting the space.

The collection is a continuation. The dislocating void of the setting hints at the uncertain state in which the character of previous seasons returns. Where will she go next? How does she survive? Tension lurks beneath a veneer of composure. A heroine, astray, holds on to mystery.

A game of trompe l’oeil ensues, as more than one ensemble explore the tonal spectrum from charcoal grey to pitch black and looks seem to partially dissolve into the nocturnal background.