Unveiled at Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris, this collection is about the pleasure of playing with fashion. Looking at the past to project into the future, creative director Jonathan Anderson feeds on both the austereness and pomp of Spanish iconography to conceive exaggerated shapes that are as regal as they are harsh.
Volumes are extreme, suspended, dropped and engineered. The juxtapositions of textures are extremized in amalgamations of coarseness and shine, opulence and utilitarianism, wools and brocades, sturdy cottons and jacquard silks, solid surfaces and bold patterns.
The regalness equals a certain roundness - bejewelled shoe clips on pumps and sneakers, the Hammock tote in suede and calf. The playfulness is dry, pushed to a boyish edge. The pleasure of couture jolliness happens in a surreal context.