Presented at the Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris, the Fall Winter 2020 collection pairs textures and forms in blunt juxtapositions of opacity and shine, curves and perpendicularity, satin and double face wool, crystals and knit, double-breasted and prom dress, kinetic motifs and plainness.
Creative director Jonathan Anderson works on notions of motion and tension, with a sense of optimism pushed to an obscure edge. Function is reduced, or twisted; definitions are blurred. A blazer is meant as outerwear, army shorts resemble a skirt, sleeves are elongated, a cape is morphed into a coat.
Opulence is in the way pieces are constructed — the curve of a sleeve, the Balloon bag in oro suede and calf —or a sudden burst of embroidery— on a bluson, or the jumbo Elephant bag. In the feel of optimism, felt hats and shoes are infantile presences. An idea of scorched glamour comes to the fore.