Unveiled at Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris, this collection is about the pleasure of playing with fashion. Looking at the past to project into the future, creative director Jonathan Anderson feeds on both the austereness and pomp of Spanish iconography to conceive exaggerated shapes that are as regal as they are harsh.
Volumes are extreme, suspended, dropped and engineered. The juxtapositions of textures are extremized in amalgamations of coarseness and shine, opulence and utilitarianism, wools and brocades, sturdy cottons and jacquard silks, solid surfaces and bold patterns.
The regalness equals a certain roundness - bejewelled shoe clips on pumps and sneakers, the Hammock tote in suede and calf. The playfulness is dry, pushed to a boyish edge. The pleasure of couture jolliness happens in a surreal context.
Collaboration with Takuro Kuwata
Takuro Kuwata is a Japanese ceramicist and recipient of a ‘special mention’ at the LOEWE FOUNDATION Craft Prize 2018. His work is characterized by formal instability, an ambivalent relationship with tradition and an intensely personal use of colour. For this runway collection, Kuwata handcrafted ceramic adornments that have been incorporated onto dresses and the drawstring of Flamenco clutches.
The irregularly shaped and solid earthen pieces are placed in a playful dialogue with the sculptural drapes of the dresses and soft structured silhouettes of the clutches. The juxtaposition reframes the Flamenco’s origins as a lightweight sinuous alternative to the bulky and heavy bags that were popular during the eighties.